How to Wet Shave (From Guys Who Don't)

Quick disclaimer

We sell shaving stuff. We don't shave. Ryan hasn't put a razor to his face since 2012. Sara doesn't have a beard problem to solve. So treat this guide as "stuff we've learned from the customers who actually use this gear" rather than guru-level shaving wisdom. If you want a deep dive, the wet shaving forums online go way deeper than we ever will.

That said, here's the basics.

Why wet shave at all

A few reasons people switch from a drugstore cartridge:

  • A real DE blade gives a closer shave than a 5-blade plastic cartridge for most guys.
  • Blades cost about a dime apiece instead of $5 a cartridge.
  • A good razor lasts a lifetime. Pass it to your kid.
  • It feels like you're doing something deliberate instead of scraping your face on the way out the door.

The trade-off is it takes longer and there's a learning curve. Worth it for a lot of guys, not for everybody.

What we sell

Double-edge (DE) safety razors. These are the classic two-piece razors. We carry both styles:

  • Butterfly (twist-to-open). The head opens like doors when you twist the handle. Drop the blade in, twist closed. Easiest to load.
  • Open comb. The head has teeth instead of a solid bar. Better for thick stubble or longer hair because it doesn't clog up. A little more aggressive on the skin, so usually not the first razor a beginner picks up.

Mach3 cartridge razor. For guys who want a nicer handle on a familiar cartridge system. Same blades you'd buy at the grocery store, just on a real handle that doesn't feel like a kid's toy.

Shavettes (barber-style razors). Look like a straight razor, but they take half of a snapped DE blade instead of a fixed blade you have to strop. You get the straight razor experience without the upkeep. Three styles, pick by feel and handle preference.

DE blades. Different brands cut differently. We carry four:

  • Parker Premium Platinum. A solid all-around blade. Good place to start if you don't know what you want.
  • Astra Platinum. Smooth, mild, popular with beginners.
  • Shark Super Stainless. Sharp, sturdy, fan favorite.
  • Feather Hi-Stainless. Japanese, very sharp. Most aggressive of the four. Not where to start.

Blades are personal. Buy a sampler, try them, see what your face likes. A blade that's perfect for one guy will tear another guy up.

Parker Pure Badger Shaving Brush with Stand. Black and chrome handle, badger hair, comes with a stand so it dries the right way. A brush is what whips your soap or cream into a real lather, and a real lather is most of what makes wet shaving better than canned foam.

How to use a DE razor

  1. Soften your face. Hot shower first, or a hot towel for a couple minutes. Dry shaving with a DE is asking for cuts.
  2. Build lather with the brush. Wet the brush, dip it in your soap or cream, work it on your face in circles until you've got a thick foam.
  3. Hold the razor at about a 30 degree angle to your skin. Not perpendicular, not flat. About a third of the way over.
  4. Let the weight of the razor do the work. Don't press down. This is the single biggest mistake guys make coming from a cartridge.
  5. Short strokes, with the grain (the direction your hair grows). Rinse the razor every couple strokes.
  6. For a closer shave, lather again and go across the grain. For an even closer shave, lather a third time and go against the grain. Most guys stop after two passes.
  7. Rinse with cold water. Pat dry. Aftershave or balm if you use it.

How to use a shavette

Same general idea as the DE, but the blade is exposed and the handle is straight. A few differences:

  1. Snap a DE blade in half along the score line. Load one half into the shavette.
  2. Hold the razor at a much shallower angle, around 15-20 degrees. Steeper than that and you'll cut yourself.
  3. Use even less pressure than a DE. The blade is right there, and it's hungry.
  4. Pull the skin tight with your free hand as you go.
  5. Same lather, same with-the-grain rules. Just slower and more careful.

Shavettes have a steeper learning curve. If you're new to wet shaving, start with a DE for a few months first.

How to use the brush

  1. Soak the bristles in warm water for a minute or two before you start. Most guys do this while they're showering.
  2. Shake out the excess. Brush should be damp, not dripping.
  3. Dip in your soap or load with cream.
  4. Work it on your face in circles until you've got a stiff lather. Adjust water as you go. Too dry and it won't spread, too wet and it falls apart.
  5. After shaving, rinse the brush thoroughly and hang it bristles-down on the stand. That's what the stand is for. Letting a wet brush sit upright on its base ruins the glue and the bristles fall out over time.

Common mistakes

  • Pressing too hard. The razor is sharp. Let it ride. Pressure is what causes nicks and razor burn.
  • Going against the grain on the first pass. With the grain first, always. Against the grain is for the second or third pass once your face is already mostly clean.
  • Skipping the prep. Hot water and a real lather aren't optional. They're what makes the shave actually work.
  • Buying one blade brand and assuming wet shaving "isn't for you" if it doesn't feel right. Try a different blade. They're cheap.
  • Storing the brush bristles-up. Bristles down. Always.

How often

Whatever your face wants. DE shaves can leave the skin a little tender at first, so a lot of guys shave every other day until they get the hang of it.

One last thing

We're not the deepest experts on any of this. If you get into it and want to go further, there's a whole world of wet shaving content out there. Forums, YouTube guys, subreddits. We're just the place that'll send you a razor and a sampler pack of blades to get started.